Materials

• TOP PLATE: Crack-proof cast acrylic from Plexiglas® or Röchling-brand acetal
• COLD PLATE: US-sourced premium C110-grade copper, guaranteed ASTM B187 spec
• COLD PLATE FINISH: Raw copper or electroless nickel
• BACKPLATE: US-sourced machined 6061 aluminum, satin hard anodized
• O-RINGS: US-made plasticizer-free EPDM o-rings
• GASKET: US-made plasticizer-free EPDM and FDA-grade custom gasket
• SCREWS: US-made 18-8 stainless steel mounting screws, Optimus made stainless steel cold plate screws

Specifications

• MAIN BLOCK: height: 123mm (flush with edges of pcb), width: 287.5mm
• BLOCK THICKNESS: 24mm (from PCB)
• TERMINAL: 25.5mm high
• BACKPLATE: 5.3mm (sticks out 7.6mm w/ thermal pad)
• WEIGHT: 5lbs

Compatibility

• Compatible with all EVGA FTW3 3080 and 3090 cards, including ULTRA, and standard models.
• Not compatible with other EVGA cards (XC3, Kingpin, etc)
• BACKPLATE REQUIRED: the backplate provides cooling as well as a mounting structure for the block itself.
• ASUS MOTHERBOARDS: the XL backplate is able to work with nearly every motherboard made, including the ASUS mobos with DIMMs close to the top slot. The slim backplate is only for extremely small SFF builds that can't fit a backplate.

Included

• 1 x GPU Block
• Thermal paste syringe + spatula
• M1.5 hex key, T8 torx key, 8mm hex key
• 2 x G1/4 Plugs
• Installation instructions

Thermal Pads

• Front thermal pads: Fujipoly - GR45 - 0.5mm
• Rear thermal pad: Fujipoly - PG25 - 3.0mm

FAQ

• COPPER VS NICKEL COLD PLATE? Choose raw copper for highest theoretical performance (depends on overclocking and overall system). Choose nickel for aesthetics and/or liquid metal compatibility
• ACRYLIC VS ACETAL? Our cast acrylic is actually far stronger than acetal, the traditional professional choice. Acetal won't ever crack, but it's soft and will deform with pressure and easily scratch. Our cast acrylic will survive far more abuse than acetal. So for all users, acrylic is recommended, unless you want the black look.
• LIQUID METAL? BARE DIE?Go for it! Remember, liquid metal will etch copper immediately, though some builders like the performance of pure copper. Liquid metal will discolor nickel, but etching will take far longer. In both cases, performance of the cold plate won't be effected.
• THERMAL PASTE? The KPX paste included with the GPU is the highest performance paste we've tested for use with the GPU block. The spread is very even and thin, which patches the polished cold plate for ideal contact.
• FLOW DIRECTION? Fluid needs to flow in a specific direction -- center of fins and then out. On acrylic blocks, the "in" is connected to the center channel. On acetal blocks, the "out" shows the fins inside, while the fins can't be seen on the "in" port.
• FLUSHING?All Optimus products have already been cleaned before shipping. You'll only need to flush your radiators and non-Optimus products. In fact, heavy system prep chemicals can be detrimental if they remain in small quantities in your loop. This can easily happen with fluid pressurized into o-ring grooves through heating.
• CLEANING? Microfiber is your friend. Dish soap and water is ideal for our products. Always use microfiber glass cloths to prevent any scratches, especially on cold plates. Do not scrub, simply hand rinse. Isopropyl alcohol is not needed and can cause discoloration.
• COPPER OXIDATION? Copper will immediately begin to oxidize (turn brown) when exposed to air. This is normal and expected and won't affect performance unless the oxidization is extreme, like the statue of liberty. But you're not leaving your blocks out by the ocean, are you?